Nice science but not particularly helpful for us in Hawaii, which has banned sunscreens with reef and marine life damaging chemicals. And every site I go to to research reef-safe options seems to be pushing one brand or another. I'd really appreciate some good "unbiased science" input on reef safe options that directly discuss the cosmetic (i.e., looking like you have just been dug up from the grave) variations in different reef-safe options.
That would be wonderful! I've often wondered about the real science behind the claims. Are they truly DDT for marine life or is it more an overly extended extrapolation of data that goes beyond what we really know, or somewhere in between.
Thanks. Went there. Lots of info but not what I was looking for (the evidence and quality of the evidence on how much current chemical based sunscreens actually do damage reefs and other marine life). I am not "skeptical" but rather curious as to the strength of the evidence.
Here's a recent review article that discusses the complexity of determining what "reef safe" means. Unfortunately many brands rushed to use the term simply because their products did not contain some sunscreen filters that demonstrated concerns in laboratory studies (which likely don't correlate to real-world exposures) rather than evaluating the sunscreen product as a whole. I'll try to write a deeper dive (pun intended!) into the topic soon. https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/marine-science/articles/10.3389/fmars.2021.665548/full
Hi! So I am the mom referenced in this article. Yes I had Mohs surgery on my nose several years ago, but I still lay out on that chaise lounge in the sun. I do apply sunscreen, but primarily only on my nose. I am totally aware this is not smart, and do see a dermatologist regularly- and get zapped regularly - but my question has always been: can you still get a tan after applying sunscreen? Admittedly, and as narcissistic as it sounds, I love that golden tan look and and believe it improves my appearance tremendously. I’m hesitant to look for shade or wear protective clothing, and I apply sunscreen sparingly. Please - no judging. But do you get any color after laying in the hot sun if applying sunscreen, generously?
Hi Dorothy, its nice to virtually meet you! No sunscreen blocks 100% of UV which is why the FDA today doesn't actually allow the term "sun block" to be used on labels any more. Have you tried sunless tanners recently? They have come a long way in recent years from the streaky, orangey products of the past! I have actually worked on developing these types of products and love using them myself because I'm quite pale and can get sunburn easily.
Hi Kelly- nice to virtually meet you, as well. And yes, I do use the sunless tanners- I also wonder how healthy they are since I use them pretty frequently and they get absorbed into my skin routine routinely. I haven’t. researched that - but I tend to person prefer the effects of UV rays. I think it’s great that you are working on developing new types of products. Please do keep me posted.
Yes, I tan, without burning, when I use sunscreen…slowly, but I do gradually tan. I burned many times when I was younger (70’s-90’s). I’m a farm kid- so lots of burns to my arms; almost zero sun on my legs. It really shows now- I’d say my arms look 30 years older than my legs (and my dermatologist has commented on it, too.)
Does the argument that people do not get enough vitamin D from the sun due to sunscreen use fail bc sunscreen breaks down or is not applied often enough?
Its really a misconception that sunscreen contributes to Vitamin D deficiency, it actually takes just a small amount of incidental sun exposure to maintain Vitamin D levels. And while some people do have Vitamin D deficiencies, dermatologists agree that supplementation and fortified foods are the best way to bolster Vitamin D levels. The Skin Cancer Foundation is a great resource for information about this and other topics. https://www.skincancer.org/blog/sun-protection-and-vitamin-d/
Hi, just an anecdote, but I am Tilda Swinton pale. I sunburn severely in about 10 to 15 minutes and have been slathered in sunscreen since my teenage years on a daily basis, long before it became standard advice to avoid skin damage and wrinkles (I’m in my 50s). I put it on as soon as I get out of the shower, and reapply when I go outside for errands or walks about midday. I also wear hats and long sleeves as much as possible (unless it’s too hot). Even with all this care, I’ve still had to have an aggressive basal cell removed.
There was only one year where I had to supplement with vitamin D, and that was because I was working long hours, not getting outside for my normal 30 to 45 minute walk, and running my errands in the dark after I got off work. The vitamin D worked just great and my levels were back to normal in no time.
It could be that because my skin is indeed so pale that the teeny amount of sun that gets through on my palms or around my eyes or past the sunscreen is enough, because my skin is clearly designed to absorb as much sun as possible. But I have friends with darker skin who do the same and have no issues either. On the other hand, I do also have friends with darker skin for whom it is not enough, and they supplement with small amounts of vitamin D.
I’m guessing it’s probably case by case. But there’s no getting around the fact that not wearing sunscreen subjects you to high skin cancer risk, not to mention degradation of the skin structure (wrinkles).
I am chronically vitamin d deficient and became so while living in the high altitude Southwest desert. My sister-in-law, who lives in Tuscon, Arizona is also vitamin d deficient. Her doctors snd mine have said that there is something else going on metabolically but that little is known about it.
You bring up an important point about environmental fate and one that could probably use a whole other post. The science continues to evolve on this topic. Keep in mind, sunscreen is just one part of a sun protection strategy which I hope I emphasized in this piece. Sun avoidance especially during peak hours and protective clothing, hats, and sunglasses should be part of the plan.
Most current assessments classify bemotrizinol as relatively low environmental risk compared with older sunscreen filters, mainly because it's minimally water solubility, binds to sediment, has low measured aquatic toxicity and limited bioaccumulation.
Remaining uncertainties involve:
long-term sediment accumulation
toxicity of degradation byproducts
environmental effects of chronic low-level exposure
Still, overall it's considered better than most others (oxybenzone, octinoxate, and mineral sunscreens) - I think.
Ecamsule was mentioned. It was my favorite sunscreen by far as it was the only thing that could protect the tip of my nose. The alternative is a funny nose guard made for golfers—or having a white nose. Then ecamsule it was pulled from the EU market. I was devastated. have been unable to find a US product containing it. Does anyone know anything about why ecsmsule was pulled? Are there any products with ecamsule currently available?
Ecamsule is still permitted in the United States, however it was approved under a new drug application (submitted by L'Oreal) and is permitted only in sunscreens registered in that application rather than being widely available to any manufacturer of sunscreens for use. You can still find it in La Roche-Posay (one of L'Oreal's many brands) products marketed as Mexoryl SX.
I hope I'm not miserably allergic to it in theway that I am to the currently available products. I an only use mineral ones and musy constantly reapply them
Compared with older sunscreen filters, bemotrizinol (BEMT) generally has very low reported human allergenicity and photoallergenicity. It was developed, in part. to address safety problems with earlier sunscreens. Patch-test and photopatch studies show very low rates of contact allergy.
Large molecular size and high lipophilicity mean limited skin penetration (beyond the outer stratum corneum, down to the viable epidermis, where the immune cells responsible for Type IV hypersensitivity reactions reside) - which reduces immune sensitization risk.
I use the Spanish sunscreen Isdin fusion water magic or the European version of La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400. Mail ordered or picked up by friends and family while in Europe. Both have much broader UVA protection than FDA approved US brands. Both are also cosmetic grade. Silky smooth and invisible.
I use Isdin too, mail ordered. As someone who has had melanoma (stage 1 thankfully), squamous cell (Mohs surgery needed) and basal cell carcinoma, I’m getting all of the protection I can. And my dermatologist tells me that these are the result of past sun damage (my mom was a beach bunny and we spent almost every day at the ocean in Va Beach).
As a New Englander who moved to COSTA RICA in 2025, I have almost never used sunscreen of any kind. It is my understanding that sunscreen negatively impacts Vitamin D levels. Having made it to 83, with only 1 or 2 basal cell and 1 squamous cell skin cancers, I’m curious about the topic, but would need to be convinced about the value of reducing Vitamin D levels in favor of preventing insignificant damage to my skin. Or maybe the damage isn’t insignificant.
I once mentioned to my doctor "when I get skin cancer" - he just looked at me both puzzled and aghast.
He grew up in England with Indian parents. I grew up in Australia, with red hair and a mother who tanned easily and dragged us out in the sun; I took after my pale father. I had several severe burns in my childhood that I now know should have had me hospitalised; it's not normal to be shivering uncontrollably from a burn.
From north of the 42nd parallel thanks for the very good info, shared with colleagues & although we don't carry high-end expensive products & can now recommend what clients should be looking for.
Curious FDA approved is slow for an ingredient extensively studied & approved in UK & Europe (Health Can Feb 2025 approved BEMT is a host of cosmetics) yet crazy & questionable products & devices get approved by RFK Jr 🤔 who by any causal observation should stay out of the sun.
FDA monograph submission for bemotrizinol (BEMT) at 6% concentration as sunscreen active ingredient (MGF400105). The request was submitted by the chemical manufacturer DSM seeking a determination that the ingredient is GRASE for OTC sunscreen use.
Hello, unfortunately I also had to have Moh’s surgery on my left cheek. The physician said it was probably due to that’s the side the sun would hit while driving.
Nice science but not particularly helpful for us in Hawaii, which has banned sunscreens with reef and marine life damaging chemicals. And every site I go to to research reef-safe options seems to be pushing one brand or another. I'd really appreciate some good "unbiased science" input on reef safe options that directly discuss the cosmetic (i.e., looking like you have just been dug up from the grave) variations in different reef-safe options.
Seems like "reef safe" claims another topic I should tackle soon!
That would be wonderful! I've often wondered about the real science behind the claims. Are they truly DDT for marine life or is it more an overly extended extrapolation of data that goes beyond what we really know, or somewhere in between.
Try the Australian Cancer Council website - reef safe sunscreen is a big topic here, and they should have plenty of non biased information.
Thanks. Went there. Lots of info but not what I was looking for (the evidence and quality of the evidence on how much current chemical based sunscreens actually do damage reefs and other marine life). I am not "skeptical" but rather curious as to the strength of the evidence.
Here's a recent review article that discusses the complexity of determining what "reef safe" means. Unfortunately many brands rushed to use the term simply because their products did not contain some sunscreen filters that demonstrated concerns in laboratory studies (which likely don't correlate to real-world exposures) rather than evaluating the sunscreen product as a whole. I'll try to write a deeper dive (pun intended!) into the topic soon. https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/marine-science/articles/10.3389/fmars.2021.665548/full
Thanks!!! Very helpful. Much appreciated.
Hi! So I am the mom referenced in this article. Yes I had Mohs surgery on my nose several years ago, but I still lay out on that chaise lounge in the sun. I do apply sunscreen, but primarily only on my nose. I am totally aware this is not smart, and do see a dermatologist regularly- and get zapped regularly - but my question has always been: can you still get a tan after applying sunscreen? Admittedly, and as narcissistic as it sounds, I love that golden tan look and and believe it improves my appearance tremendously. I’m hesitant to look for shade or wear protective clothing, and I apply sunscreen sparingly. Please - no judging. But do you get any color after laying in the hot sun if applying sunscreen, generously?
Hi Dorothy, its nice to virtually meet you! No sunscreen blocks 100% of UV which is why the FDA today doesn't actually allow the term "sun block" to be used on labels any more. Have you tried sunless tanners recently? They have come a long way in recent years from the streaky, orangey products of the past! I have actually worked on developing these types of products and love using them myself because I'm quite pale and can get sunburn easily.
Hi Kelly- nice to virtually meet you, as well. And yes, I do use the sunless tanners- I also wonder how healthy they are since I use them pretty frequently and they get absorbed into my skin routine routinely. I haven’t. researched that - but I tend to person prefer the effects of UV rays. I think it’s great that you are working on developing new types of products. Please do keep me posted.
Yes, I tan, without burning, when I use sunscreen…slowly, but I do gradually tan. I burned many times when I was younger (70’s-90’s). I’m a farm kid- so lots of burns to my arms; almost zero sun on my legs. It really shows now- I’d say my arms look 30 years older than my legs (and my dermatologist has commented on it, too.)
Does the argument that people do not get enough vitamin D from the sun due to sunscreen use fail bc sunscreen breaks down or is not applied often enough?
Its really a misconception that sunscreen contributes to Vitamin D deficiency, it actually takes just a small amount of incidental sun exposure to maintain Vitamin D levels. And while some people do have Vitamin D deficiencies, dermatologists agree that supplementation and fortified foods are the best way to bolster Vitamin D levels. The Skin Cancer Foundation is a great resource for information about this and other topics. https://www.skincancer.org/blog/sun-protection-and-vitamin-d/
Hi, just an anecdote, but I am Tilda Swinton pale. I sunburn severely in about 10 to 15 minutes and have been slathered in sunscreen since my teenage years on a daily basis, long before it became standard advice to avoid skin damage and wrinkles (I’m in my 50s). I put it on as soon as I get out of the shower, and reapply when I go outside for errands or walks about midday. I also wear hats and long sleeves as much as possible (unless it’s too hot). Even with all this care, I’ve still had to have an aggressive basal cell removed.
There was only one year where I had to supplement with vitamin D, and that was because I was working long hours, not getting outside for my normal 30 to 45 minute walk, and running my errands in the dark after I got off work. The vitamin D worked just great and my levels were back to normal in no time.
It could be that because my skin is indeed so pale that the teeny amount of sun that gets through on my palms or around my eyes or past the sunscreen is enough, because my skin is clearly designed to absorb as much sun as possible. But I have friends with darker skin who do the same and have no issues either. On the other hand, I do also have friends with darker skin for whom it is not enough, and they supplement with small amounts of vitamin D.
I’m guessing it’s probably case by case. But there’s no getting around the fact that not wearing sunscreen subjects you to high skin cancer risk, not to mention degradation of the skin structure (wrinkles).
I am chronically vitamin d deficient and became so while living in the high altitude Southwest desert. My sister-in-law, who lives in Tuscon, Arizona is also vitamin d deficient. Her doctors snd mine have said that there is something else going on metabolically but that little is known about it.
One of the things that's important to me about sunscreens is their environmental impact. Is there any information about how this new ingredient impacts marine life or whether it acts as a water pollutant? https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/news/sunscreen-corals-noaa-studies.html
You bring up an important point about environmental fate and one that could probably use a whole other post. The science continues to evolve on this topic. Keep in mind, sunscreen is just one part of a sun protection strategy which I hope I emphasized in this piece. Sun avoidance especially during peak hours and protective clothing, hats, and sunglasses should be part of the plan.
Most current assessments classify bemotrizinol as relatively low environmental risk compared with older sunscreen filters, mainly because it's minimally water solubility, binds to sediment, has low measured aquatic toxicity and limited bioaccumulation.
Remaining uncertainties involve:
long-term sediment accumulation
toxicity of degradation byproducts
environmental effects of chronic low-level exposure
Still, overall it's considered better than most others (oxybenzone, octinoxate, and mineral sunscreens) - I think.
Ecamsule was mentioned. It was my favorite sunscreen by far as it was the only thing that could protect the tip of my nose. The alternative is a funny nose guard made for golfers—or having a white nose. Then ecamsule it was pulled from the EU market. I was devastated. have been unable to find a US product containing it. Does anyone know anything about why ecsmsule was pulled? Are there any products with ecamsule currently available?
Ecamsule is still permitted in the United States, however it was approved under a new drug application (submitted by L'Oreal) and is permitted only in sunscreens registered in that application rather than being widely available to any manufacturer of sunscreens for use. You can still find it in La Roche-Posay (one of L'Oreal's many brands) products marketed as Mexoryl SX.
…and therein lies the rub ( pun intended)! ;)
I hope I'm not miserably allergic to it in theway that I am to the currently available products. I an only use mineral ones and musy constantly reapply them
Compared with older sunscreen filters, bemotrizinol (BEMT) generally has very low reported human allergenicity and photoallergenicity. It was developed, in part. to address safety problems with earlier sunscreens. Patch-test and photopatch studies show very low rates of contact allergy.
Large molecular size and high lipophilicity mean limited skin penetration (beyond the outer stratum corneum, down to the viable epidermis, where the immune cells responsible for Type IV hypersensitivity reactions reside) - which reduces immune sensitization risk.
I use the Spanish sunscreen Isdin fusion water magic or the European version of La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400. Mail ordered or picked up by friends and family while in Europe. Both have much broader UVA protection than FDA approved US brands. Both are also cosmetic grade. Silky smooth and invisible.
I use Isdin too, mail ordered. As someone who has had melanoma (stage 1 thankfully), squamous cell (Mohs surgery needed) and basal cell carcinoma, I’m getting all of the protection I can. And my dermatologist tells me that these are the result of past sun damage (my mom was a beach bunny and we spent almost every day at the ocean in Va Beach).
Thank you for this info. Anyone mind sharing their sunscreen brand? I’m always looking for new ones to try for my family.
La Rosée and AlphaNova are two great brands that have solid Yuka scores.
As a New Englander who moved to COSTA RICA in 2025, I have almost never used sunscreen of any kind. It is my understanding that sunscreen negatively impacts Vitamin D levels. Having made it to 83, with only 1 or 2 basal cell and 1 squamous cell skin cancers, I’m curious about the topic, but would need to be convinced about the value of reducing Vitamin D levels in favor of preventing insignificant damage to my skin. Or maybe the damage isn’t insignificant.
Here is some great information on this topic. https://www.skincancer.org/press/skin-cancer-awareness-month-reminder-obtain-vitamin-d-safely-through-diet-and-vitamin-supplements/
I once mentioned to my doctor "when I get skin cancer" - he just looked at me both puzzled and aghast.
He grew up in England with Indian parents. I grew up in Australia, with red hair and a mother who tanned easily and dragged us out in the sun; I took after my pale father. I had several severe burns in my childhood that I now know should have had me hospitalised; it's not normal to be shivering uncontrollably from a burn.
Fortunately, I'm so far free from cancer.
Great Update! Such controversy around sunscreen ingredients. We will do as you recommend.
From north of the 42nd parallel thanks for the very good info, shared with colleagues & although we don't carry high-end expensive products & can now recommend what clients should be looking for.
Curious FDA approved is slow for an ingredient extensively studied & approved in UK & Europe (Health Can Feb 2025 approved BEMT is a host of cosmetics) yet crazy & questionable products & devices get approved by RFK Jr 🤔 who by any causal observation should stay out of the sun.
JJF Phm 🇨🇦
Dermatologist and epidemiologist here. Can you provide the actual data demonstrating the safety and effectiveness of bemotrizinol?
The linked document summarizes the FDA's review of safety and efficacy data. I don't know if there's a single, readily available repository of all the data submitted but assume you can reach out to DSM, the manufacturer working to gain approval. The MUsT studies have been published in scholarly journals, in 2023 and 2024, and can be found by searching for bemotrizinol pharmacokinetics. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/Order/supportDoc/OTC000039/Internal_Documents/2025.12.09%20ProposedOrder_BemotrizinolOTC000039_090026f88e15dab6.pdf
FDA monograph submission for bemotrizinol (BEMT) at 6% concentration as sunscreen active ingredient (MGF400105). The request was submitted by the chemical manufacturer DSM seeking a determination that the ingredient is GRASE for OTC sunscreen use.
Clinical safety review (under IND 146892);
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/2.7.4_Summary_of_Clinical_Safety/rev_summary-clin-safety_090026f88e1259b1.pdf
Preclinical section;
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/2.4_Nonclinical_Overview/rev_nonclinical-overview_090026f88e125db9.pdf
Index to MGF400105 documents; https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cder/omuf/index.cfm?event=supptdoc&orderid=OTC000039
Thank you!
Hello, unfortunately I also had to have Moh’s surgery on my left cheek. The physician said it was probably due to that’s the side the sun would hit while driving.